Mount Makalu Expedition
Height: 8,485 m (27,838 ft)
Rank: 5th Highest Mountain in the World
Location: Border of Nepal & Tibet (China), Mahalangur Himal
Mount Makalu is one of the most iconic 8000-meter peaks—famous for its perfect pyramid shape, extreme remoteness, and powerful technical challenges. Rising sharply above the Barun Valley, Makalu stands as a giant wall of rock, snow, and ice, demanding advanced skill from every climber who approaches it.
About Mount Makalu
Elevation: 8,485 meters
Range: Mahalangur Himal, Eastern Himalayas
First Ascent: 15 May 1955 by Lionel Terray & Jean Couzy (French Expedition)
Known For: Steep ridges, exposed faces, and one of the hardest standard routes among the 8000ers
Makalu remains one of the least-climbed yet most respected peaks due to its combination of isolation, technical difficulty, and unpredictable weather patterns.
The Barun Valley – A Hidden Paradise
At the foot of Makalu lies the stunning Barun Valley, one of Nepal’s most untouched natural wonders.
This region is known for:
* Deep gorges and high waterfalls
* Rare Himalayan flora & wildlife
*Indigenous Sherpa & Kirat culture
* Pristine alpine landscapes rarely touched by tourism
The isolation of Barun Valley makes the Makalu expedition a unique blend of wilderness, adventure, and pure Himalayan beauty.
My Goal: Makalu Expedition
As part of my mission to complete all 8 of Nepal’s 8000-meter peaks, Makalu represents a major technical challenge.
This climb will require advanced ice skills, rope handling, endurance, and mental resilience.
Climbing Route (Normal Route – Northwest Ridge)
While Makalu has several prominent routes, the Northwest Ridge is the most commonly used today and offers the safest access to the summit.
Camp Setup
* Base Camp – 4,800 m
Trek arrival, preparation, acclimatization
* Advanced Base Camp (ABC) – 5,600 m
Transition to glacier terrain
* Camp I – 6,100 m
Steep ice sections and fixed ropes
* Camp II – 6,500 m
Technical ridges, mixed climbing
* Camp III – 7,400 m
Exposed and windy ridgeline
* Camp IV – 7,800 m
Final staging point for summit push
* Summit – 8,485 m
A demanding climb across steep snow slopes and rock towers
Expedition Plan (April–May)
Day 1–4: Kathmandu briefing, permits, gear preparation
Day 5: Flight to Tumlingtar
Day 6–11: Drive to Num and trek to Base Camp
Day 12–32: Climbing rotations, acclimatization, route fixing
Day 33–40: Summit window
Day 41–45: Safe descent and return
Total Duration: 45–50 days
Why Makalu Is Extremely Difficult
Long technical ridges,
Steep ice cliffs,
Exposure to strong winds,
Unpredictable storm patterns,
Very remote—limited rescue options
Makalu demands solid experience on 7000m peaks and strong technical knowledge of glacier and alpine climbing.
❤️ Why I Am Attempting Makalu
This expedition is a testament to my commitment to complete Nepal’s 8000-meter challenge.
Standing on Makalu’s summit is not just a personal goal—it is a symbol of discipline, courage, and relentless determination.
Each climb brings me closer to inspiring young Indians to dream beyond limits.
Support the Mission
Together, we push the limits of possibility.